How to Clean Snorkeling Gear | Step-by-Step Maintenance Guide

Immediately rinse the surfaces of the mask, snorkel, and fins with fresh water (non-seawater) after each use to remove silt and sand.

Focus on scrubbing the mouthpiece and mask seal for 5 minutes to prevent salt corrosion.

Deep Cleaning (Once a month)

Mix 1 liter of warm water with 5ml of neutral detergent (e.g., Dove), soak the equipment for 15 minutes, gently scrub crevices with a soft brush, and rinse under running water.

Lay flat to dry in a cool, ventilated area for 24 hours (avoid sunlight to prevent aging).

Stuff the mask with paper towels to absorb moisture, store in a breathable mesh bag, and keep in an environment of 15-25℃ with 40-60% humidity.

If silicone develops mold, soak in a white vinegar:water = 1:1 solution for 30 minutes;

If the mask fogs up, apply a thin layer of toothpaste and wipe the inner side.

Dry thoroughly before long-term storage, loosen fin straps to avoid compression deformation, and check for moisture every 3 months.

Rinse After Each Use

After leaving a saltwater or chlorinated environment, you must rinse your gear with plenty of fresh water within 30 minutes.

Salt crystals precipitated from dried seawater are extremely hard;

they can wear down mask lenses and corrode the silicone seal, shortening equipment lifespan by more than 60%.

If fresh water is not immediately available, keep the gear wet (e.g., in a plastic bag with seawater or soaked in a bucket) to prevent salt from drying and caking.

Thorough rinsing should include the internal valves of the snorkel and the gaps in the mask skirt.

It is recommended that the volume of water used for each rinse be at least 3 times the volume of the equipment to ensure the dissolved salt concentration is below the corrosion threshold.

Component Rinsing

Mask Maintenance

Removing Oil from the Silicone Skirt

• Source of problem: Facial sebum, sunscreen (especially oil-based ones), and makeup residue. These organic compounds penetrate the porous structure of the silicone, causing it to yellow, lose elasticity, and become brittle within 3-6 months.

• Cleaning operation:

  • Use a small amount of mild baby shampoo or specialized mask cleaner.

  • Vigorously rub the inside of the skirt with your thumb pad (strictly avoid using nails or brushes to prevent scratching polished surfaces), especially the nose pocket and forehead contact areas.

  • Data metrics: Rubbing time should be no less than 30 seconds, until the silicone surface no longer feels slippery but has a "squeaky" clean grip.

Frame & Buckle Gaps

• Salt accumulation zones: The fitting grooves between the lens and the silicone skirt are high-risk areas for salt crystallization. Dried salt crystals will widen the gaps, leading to micro-leaks.

• Cleaning operation:

  • Gently scrub the frame edges with a soft toothbrush.

  • For non-detachable frames, try using dental floss to clear stubborn salt particles from the gaps.

  • Operate the strap adjustment buckles; press the adjustment buttons repeatedly while rinsing to flush salt water out of the internal spring mechanism.

Snorkel

Corrugated Section

• Structural flaw: To increase wearing comfort, the lower part of many snorkels uses a corrugated design. These folds can trap about 10-15 ml of seawater, which ordinary rinsing cannot discharge.

• Cleaning operation:

  • Stretch the corrugated section and flush deep into the folds with a strong stream of water.

  • If possible, use a long-handled narrow tube brush (similar to a baby bottle straw brush) to scrub deep inside the tube and remove the biofilm attached to the inner wall. Biofilm can form within 24 hours, feeling slimy and carrying an odor.

Purge Valve

• Failure point: This is a one-way silicone membrane, usually 2-3 cm in diameter. Its working clearance is extremely small; a single grain of 0.2 mm sand or dried salt stuck on the edge of the membrane will cause the snorkel to leak constantly during inhalation.

• Cleaning operation:

  • While rinsing with flowing water, gently push open the one-way valve flap from the outside with your finger to let the water flush the contact surface between the flap and the base.

  • Inspection: Check the flap against the light to see if it sits flat and fits snugly; any curling or deformation requires replacement.

Mouthpiece

• Hygiene standard: This is the part placed in the mouth.

• Cleaning operation:

  • Clean with mouthwash (alcohol-containing types can disinfect but must be rinsed thoroughly) or diluted dish soap.

  • Check the bite area for damage (bite marks); damaged silicone easily harbors dirt and bacteria.

Fins

Buckle System of Adjustable Fins

• Corrosion risk: Many buckles contain stainless steel springs or metal pins. Although labeled as "stainless steel," pitting corrosion can still occur in high-concentration saltwater and closed environments (anaerobic corrosion).

• Cleaning operation:

  • The male buckle (insertion part) must be completely removed from the female socket.

  • Repeatedly press the release button 5-10 times in flowing fresh water, using water pressure to flush sand particles out of the spring cavity.

  • Lubrication: After every 10-20 uses, it is recommended to apply a very small amount of food-grade silicone oil to dry metal parts to prevent metal oxidation.

Foot Pocket & Rails

• Source of wear: The bottom of the foot pocket is usually thick and prone to accumulating large grains of sand and stones.

• Cleaning operation:

  • Reach your hand into the deepest part of the foot pocket and flip it for cleaning.

  • Check the rubber rails on both sides of the fin. If you find tiny white powdery substances on the rubber surface, this is an early sign of rubber oxidation, indicating that previous rinsing was incomplete and salt is chemically degrading the rubber. At this point, the area needs to be scrubbed with a stiff brush.

Cleaning Tools

To avoid damaging equipment surface coatings (such as anti-fog coatings or mirror finishes), choosing the right tools is crucial.

Cleaning Object	Recommended Tools	Prohibited Tools	Reasoning
Mask Lens (Internal)	Finger pad, microfiber cloth	Toothbrush, rough side of sponge	Internal surfaces often have a factory anti-fog film; hard objects will cause it to peel.
Mask Lens (External)	Soft cloth, neutral detergent	Toothpaste (containing abrasives)	Particles in toothpaste will scratch tempered glass or polycarbonate surfaces.
Silicone Skirt	Fingers, baby shampoo	Solvents containing petroleum components	Petroleum derivatives will cause silicone to swell and deform.
Snorkel Inner Wall	Nylon tube brush	Wire brush	Metal will scratch the plastic inner wall; resulting scratches harbor bacteria more easily.
Fin Surface	Soft brush, sponge	Steel wool	Maintains the smoothness of the fin's hydrodynamic surface.

If the mask strap uses a neoprene design with Velcro, its extremely fine fiber structure easily catches seaweed and hair.

A hard-toothed comb must be used to regularly clean the hook side of the Velcro;

otherwise, its adhesive strength will drop to 40% of the initial value after 50 uses, creating a risk of gear falling off underwater.

Deep Cleaning

Daily rinsing only removes surface saltwater.

It is recommended to perform a deep clean every 10 to 15 cumulative uses, or when preparing for long-term storage after the diving season ends.

Using warm water below 40°C combined with a pH-neutral (pH 7) cleaner, soaking for over 30 minutes effectively breaks down hardened salt crystals and oily sunscreen residue.

This step prevents the silicone skirt from yellowing due to oxidation and clears mold spores that can form within the snorkel inner wall in damp environments within 24 to 48 hours.

Soaking and Scrubbing

Solution Ratio

Find a bucket with a capacity of about 20 liters or a clean sink.

• Temperature Control: Add warm water, just slightly warm to the touch. Strictly prohibit the use of hot water exceeding 40°C; excessively high temperatures will cause Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) and liquid silicone to deform, permanently damaging the mask's seal.

• Detergent Choice: Add about 15 ml (one tablespoon) of baby shampoo or mild dish detergent. Stir until a small amount of foam is produced.

  • Suitable: Baby shampoo (tear-free formula), specialized dive gear cleaners (brands like McNett, etc.).

  • Prohibited: Bleach (hardens silicone), cleaners with petroleum components (corrodes rubber), alcohol-based liquids (causes plastic to crack).

Scrubbing Tools

• Soft-Bristle Toothbrush:

  • Specs: Bristle diameter 0.10mm - 0.15mm.

  • Usage: For silicone skirts, inside the mask nose pocket, and fin buckles.

  • Cautions: Strictly prohibit hard-bristle brushes or cleaning balls; once micro-scratches appear on the mirror-polished silicone surface, they become permanent settlements for mold.

• Flexible Pipe Cleaner:

  • Specs: At least 30cm long, brush head diameter 20mm (slightly larger than standard snorkel inner diameter). Material should be nylon bristles; avoid brushes with exposed metal to prevent scratching tube walls.

  • Usage: Snorkel interior, corrugated tube sections.

• Non-Abrasive Microfiber:

  • Specs: 300 GSM (Grams per Square Meter) or above.

  • Usage: Wiping mask lenses. Any paper tissue containing wood pulp contains tiny wood fibers sufficient to leave permanent glare streaks on polycarbonate or resin lenses.

Mask Anatomy

You need to treat the following areas like a dentist cleaning plaque:

• Frame-Skirt Junction:

  • This is the "prime real estate" for mold growth. Moisture stays here and is difficult to dry.

  • Operation: After soaking, gently scrub along the seam line with a soft toothbrush. If your mask is clear silicone, look closely for black dots. For non-detachable masks, try to gently pry back the skirt slightly (do not use excessive force to avoid debonding) to allow the bristle tips into the gap to scrub out off-white calcified powder.

• Nose Pocket:

  • Nasal secretions and sunscreen mixtures often accumulate here, which not only causes odors but the oil also leads to frequent fogging.

  • Operation: Extend the toothbrush into the very bottom of the nose pocket and rotate the brush head to clean. Apply undiluted dish soap here, let it sit for 2 minutes, then scrub to completely remove grease.

• Strap Teeth:

  • Fine sand or dried salt blocks can get caught in every tooth of the strap. If not cleaned, adjustment will feel stiff and it may even cause the silicone strap to snap under tension.

  • Operation: Stretch the silicone strap to open the teeth and scrub horizontally with a brush in the water.

Snorkel

• Tube Interior:

  • Simple rinsing cannot remove the biofilm attached to the tube walls.

  • Operation: Dip the pipe brush in soapy water and insert it fully into the tube body. For flex-tube snorkels with curved corrugations, you need to repeatedly pull the brush and rotate the handle to ensure bristles reach the depths of the folds. You might be surprised to find the foam brushed out is often brownish-gray.

• Purge Valve:

  • This is a one-way silicone diaphragm, usually between 15mm and 25mm in diameter. If a single grain of sand 0.5mm in diameter is stuck under the membrane, the snorkel will leak.

  • Operation: Do not use a brush to vigorously poke the diaphragm, as this will deform it. The correct way is to flush strongly with running water and use a finger to gently lift the edge of the membrane (if structure allows) to check for foreign objects underneath. If calcified white spots are found, gently wipe with a cotton swab dipped in 1:1 diluted white vinegar.

• Dry Top / Splash Guard:

  • The top usually contains a float valve mechanism. Salt crystallization increases the friction of the float valve, causing it to fail to open on the surface (unable to breathe) or fail to close underwater (flooding).

  • Operation: Shake the top repeatedly in warm water and listen for a crisp sound from the float valve. If there is a sense of resistance, it needs a longer soak.

Fins

• Buckle System:

  • Modern fins often use ABS plastic buckles or stainless steel spring straps. Once seawater dries, salt particles can lock up springs or buttons like cement.

  • Operation: Repeatedly press the Quick Release Buttons at least 10 times in water until the feel changes from stiff to smooth. For stainless steel spring straps, use a toothbrush to clean every coil gap to prevent salt corrosion from causing metal fatigue and breakage.

• Foot Pocket:

  • This is where dead skin cells and bacteria accumulate, the source of that "locker room foot odor."

  • Operation: Turn the foot pocket inside out (if material allows) or reach your hand into the deepest part to scrub with a sponge. Ensure the toe corners are cleaned thoroughly.

• Ribs and Blade:

  • Check composite material joints for white stress marks. Wipe the blade with a soft cloth to remove dried algae or tar spots (common beach pollutants). If you encounter tar, do not use a scraper; use a small amount of vegetable oil or baby oil to dissolve it, then wash away the oil with soapy water.

Dealing with Calcification

If white hard patches (calcium carbonate deposits) remain on the equipment after soaking and scrubbing, ordinary soapy water will be ineffective.

• Acidic Dissolution Solution:

  • Use edible white vinegar (acetic acid content about 5%).

  • Ratio: 1 part vinegar to 3 parts warm water.

  • Spot Treatment: Do not soak the entire mask in the vinegar solution, as long-term acidic exposure might affect the light transmittance of certain clear silicones or cause aging. It is recommended to soak a paper towel in the solution and cover the calcified area like a "face mask" for 15 minutes.

You may see tiny bubbles forming; this is carbon dioxide produced by the reaction between the acid and calcium carbonate, indicating the cleaning is working.

After the reaction, be sure to rinse thoroughly again with fresh water to neutralize the acid.

Final Rinsing and Drying

Dynamic Flow Rinsing

• Flow and Pressure Control:

  • Use medium-pressure tap water (approx. 0.2 MPa to 0.3 MPa). Excessive water pressure (like a pressure washer) might blow off decorative rings on the mask or damage flexible snorkel joints.

  • Rinse Duration: Rinse each piece of equipment for at least 2 minutes. For complex dry snorkels, extending this to 3 minutes is suggested.

• Temperature Reset:

  • Warm water was used for cleaning; the final rinse must use cold water. Cold water helps tighten plastic pores slightly expanded by heat, returning materials to their normal temperature hardness and reducing the probability of deformation during storage.

• Inside-Out Rinsing Logic:

  • Snorkel: Aim the intake at the faucet, letting water fill the tube and flush out through the bottom Purge Valve. This verifies the valve flap has returned to position while flushing soap bubbles from the valve seat gaps. During operation, rhythmically block and release the top opening with your palm to create a "Water Hammer" effect, vibrating the tube walls to loosen stubborn particles.

  • Mask: Don't just rinse the outside. Water should impact the inside of the nose pocket and the grooves of the skirt interior. If your mask is detachable, rinsing the gaps of the buckle spring assembly is particularly important.

  • Fins: Turn fins upside down and let water impact the deepest part of the foot pocket (toe position), as this is the hardest corner for detergent residue to escape.

Mechanical Water Removal

Relying solely on gravity for draining is inefficient and prone to leaving water spots.

Before natural air drying, manually remove 90% of the water.

• Centrifugal Shaking:

  • Hold the hard tube part of the snorkel (not the mouthpiece) and shake it forcefully toward the ground 3 to 5 times. Use centrifugal force to eject water droplets trapped in corrugated folds.

  • Perform a similar shaking action for the mask, but hold the frame rather than the silicone strap to prevent overstretching the silicone.

• The "Blast Clear" Method:

  • Just like clearing a snorkel in the water, take a deep breath and blow forcefully into the snorkel mouthpiece. This is to blow open the purge valve flap, using high-speed airflow to remove the extremely thin film of water on the flap contact surface. Many snorkels mold because this water film fails to evaporate over a long period.

• Moisture Absorption:

  • Use a high-weight (above 300 GSM) microfiber towel to blot surface moisture.

  • Do Not Wipe the Lens Interior: Even with a clean towel, wiping can damage the anti-fog film. For lenses, simply use the corner of the towel to gently dab water droplets hanging on the edges.

If the silicone has been deeply stained by mold (penetrated into the material), cleaning can only sterilize it, not remove the color.

For hygiene and psychological comfort, it is recommended to spend about 5 to 10 USD to buy a new universal mouthpiece for replacement.

Drying and Storage

After completing the fresh water rinse, equipment must be allowed to air dry naturally in a cool, ventilated place for 24 to 48 hours until no moisture remains in the crevices.

Strictly prohibit exposing silicone products to direct sunlight;

ultraviolet (UV) light will cause liquid silicone rubber (LSR) molecular chains to break after 200 hours of cumulative exposure, causing the mask skirt to yellow, harden, and lose its seal.

Storage temperature should be controlled between 10°C and 25°C (50°F-77°F), with humidity below 50% to inhibit mold growth.

Never store equipment in a car trunk or near a water heater where temperatures might exceed 40°C;

high temperatures cause irreversible deformation of thermoplastics.

Drying Procedures

Mechanical Water Removal

• Centrifugal Force:

  • Snorkel Operation: Hold the middle of the snorkel, ensure the mouthpiece faces outward, and shake downward forcefully. This forces water droplets trapped in the Flex Tube corrugations and under the Purge Valve diaphragm to detach. Experiments show three high-intensity shakes can remove over 90% of accumulated water.

  • Fin Operation: Hold the fin's heel strap and shake forcefully to eject water from the depths of the foot pocket. For fins with vents, ensure the shaking direction aligns with the vent orientation.

• Gravity Drainage:

  • Mask: Never lay the mask flat with the lens facing up. This posture causes water to pool in the depths of the nose pocket, where air circulation is extremely poor and moisture may remain for over 72 hours. The correct physical posture is to place the mask at a 45-degree angle, strap facing down, or hang it so the nose pocket is at the lowest point, using gravity to draw water out.

  • Snorkel: Must be hung upside down. When placed upright, moisture accumulates at the bottom of the U-bend, causing silicone valve flaps to soak long-term and stick.

Choosing Absorbent Materials

• Prohibit Cotton Towels: Ordinary cotton towels have high linting rates and rough fibers. During wiping, cotton fibers easily get stuck in the ~0.5mm gap between the mask frame and skirt, becoming a substrate for mold growth.

• Select Microfiber:
  It is recommended to use microfiber towels made of a blend of 80% polyester and 20% polyamide.

  • High Absorption: This material can absorb 7 times its own weight in water.

  • Lint-free: It breaks the surface tension of water, dabbing away droplets without leaving streaks.

• Blotting:
  For mask lenses (especially those with anti-fog coatings) and smooth plastic parts, "back-and-forth wiping" is strictly prohibited. Dust settled from the air or trace salt crystals not washed away are usually harder than plastic; wiping is equivalent to sanding with fine sandpaper. The correct physical operation is to lay the towel flat on the surface, press lightly to absorb water, and lift.

Micro-Drying

• O-Rings & Grooves:
  Waterproof flashlights, camera housings, and some dry snorkel top valves contain O-rings. If moisture is not removed, it leads to oxidation of the O-ring groove (if metal) or emulsification of the silicone grease.

  • Operation: Detachable parts should be disassembled and a cotton swab used to dry moisture inside the grooves.

• Spring Straps & Buckles:
  Modern fins are often equipped with stainless steel spring straps. Although stainless, 304-grade stainless steel can still suffer pitting corrosion at joints under residues in high-chlorine or high-salt environments.

  • Operation: During the drying process, use these metal parts as a fulcrum and stretch the springs a few times to eject the water film inside the spiral coils.

• Velcro:
  Velcro on dive boots or certain mask straps is highly absorbent. Damp Velcro loses about 15% of its adhesive strength and produces odors.

  • Operation: Velcro must be pulled apart during drying to fully expose the hook and loop sides.

The standard for complete dryness is:

Placement in a ventilated environment for over 24 hours, with no visible reflective water film in any crevices.

For complex dry snorkel top valves, a drying time of 48 hours is recommended.

Targeted Storage

Mask

• Mechanical Decoupling:
  Before entering storage, the snorkel keeper must be removed.

  • Stress Analysis: When the snorkel is connected to the mask strap, it exerts a continuous lateral pull (approx. 2N - 5N) on the left side of the mask skirt. Although small, if maintained for weeks, it causes the left skirt to gradually flare outward. This asymmetrical deformation leads to frequent leaks on the left side underwater.

• Rigid Protection:
  A hard case must be used.

  • Spatial Isolation: Soft mesh bags offer no compression protection. If the mask is placed under heavy objects, the skirt will fold under pressure. Once silicone molecular chains rearrange (cross-link) in a folded state, this deformation becomes permanent. Data shows that 48 hours of continuous compression is enough to cause visible permanent deformation in average-grade silicone.

  • Avoid Contact Reactions: If light-colored clear silicone is stored in tight contact with black rubber (like dive boot soles), carbon black fillers in the black rubber will migrate into the clear silicone via molecular diffusion, causing permanent yellowish-brown staining.

• Lens Protection:
  If the mask uses anti-fog film or optical corrective lenses, the storage box should be lined with a layer of microfiber cloth to prevent the hard plastic box walls from wearing down lens coatings during transport vibration.

Snorkel

• Flex Tube Stress Management:
  Modern snorkels usually have a silicone flex section in the middle.

  • Incorrect Operation: Coiling the snorkel to fit into a mask box or fin pocket to save space.

  • Consequence: Forced bending creates high tensile stress at the valleys of the corrugated tube. Silicone under long-term tension is more susceptible to ozone attack, leading to cracks.

  • Correct Solution: Store flat in a naturally straight state or hang upside down.

• Mouthpiece Shape Maintenance:
  The bite tabs on the mouthpiece are usually very thin.

  • Use of Protective Covers: If the snorkel comes with a mouthpiece dust cover, be sure to use it during storage. This not only prevents dust but also keeps the mouthpiece from being flattened by external force. A deformed mouthpiece increases jaw fatigue.

• Dry Top Valve Special Treatment:
  The float valve at the top of a dry snorkel contains precise moving parts and sealing gaskets.

  • Prevent Sticking: When not in use for a long time, it is recommended to apply an extremely small amount of food-grade silicone grease to the top valve gasket to prevent the rubber from drying/cracking or sticking to the plastic housing. Note: the amount of grease must be less than 0.1g to avoid attracting sand.

Fins

• Storage Posture Physics:

  • Prohibit Vertical Bottoming: Never lean fins against a wall with the blade tips touching the ground. The entire weight of the fin (usually 0.5kg - 1.2kg per fin) acts on the blade tips, causing them to gradually curve downward. This curvature changes the blade's angle of attack, reducing kicking efficiency by 15% - 20%.

  • Hanging Solution (Recommended): Use the fin strap or foot pocket edge to hang them on wall hooks. This is the best way to eliminate blade stress.

  • Horizontal Placement: If they must be laid flat, ensure the blades have flat support underneath and are not hanging in the air.

• Foot Pocket Shaping:
  For full-foot fins, the rubber foot pocket easily collapses under long-term pressure.

  • Fillers: Use the original plastic shape inserts. If lost, use cardboard rolled into a cylinder or balled-up newspaper. This maintains the 3D shape of the pocket, ensuring a comfortable fit next time.

• Adjustable Straps Handling:

  • Loosen Buckles: For open-heel fins, loosen the straps to their maximum size or unbuckle them for storage. Tight fin straps keep the rubber under high tension, accelerating aging and cracking.

Boots & Gloves

• Inside-Out Storage:
  During the cleaning and drying stages, boots and gloves should be turned inside out. For storage, if space allows, keeping them inside out (lining facing out) is the better choice.

  • Reason: Even after drying, trace moisture may be released from deep within the closed-cell foam. Having the lining face out facilitates continuous ventilation, preventing internal mildew odors.

• Avoid Folding:
  Do not store dive boots with the cuffs folded down, and do not squeeze gloves forcefully. Air bubbles in neoprene will burst under long-term compression, leading to a permanent decrease in material thickness and thermal performance (R-value).

Gear Bags

• Mesh Bags vs. Sealed Bags:

  • Daily Storage: Use a heavy-duty nylon mesh bag. Mesh diameter should be between 2mm - 5mm, which blocks insects while ensuring free air convection.

  • Travel/Transport: Only put gear in sealed suitcases or dry bags when transport is required. Remove them immediately upon reaching the destination.

• Zipper Maintenance:
  Metal or plastic zippers are the most easily damaged parts of a gear bag.

Lubrication

Apply a thin layer of zipper wax or silicone grease to the zipper teeth before long-term storage.

Pull the zipper several times to distribute the lubricant evenly.

This prevents salt spray from corroding metal sliders and keeps plastic from aging and becoming brittle.

Special Issue Solutions

Even after regular fresh water rinsing, residual microscopic salt crystals can cause zippers to seize within 48 hours, while damp snorkel interiors can become bacterial breeding grounds after 24 hours.

Solving these stubborn problems requires specific chemical agents and physical methods:

For mold odors, soaking for 15 minutes in a specialized enzyme cleaner containing subtilisin works best;

For stuck metal zippers, soaking them in a 5% concentration white vinegar and warm water solution (approx. 40°C) for 30 minutes can dissolve salt scale;

If the mask silicone skirt becomes sticky, it indicates irreversible hydrolytic degradation of the material.

At this point, cleaning is ineffective, and it must be replaced immediately to prevent leaks.

Snorkel and Regulator

Enzyme Cleaners

The most effective means against biofilm is chemical degradation.

Traditional dish soaps mainly target oils, whereas the primary pollutants in snorkels are proteins.

Enzymatic Cleaners are currently recognized as the industry standard solution.

These cleaners usually contain various active enzymes:

1. Protease: Specifically targets and cuts protein chains in saliva, blood, or mucus, breaking them down into amino acids.

2. Amylase: Handles carbohydrate residues.

3. Lipase: Breaks down sunscreen or human oils.

Operating Process:

1. Ratio: Prepare a bucket that can fully submerge the gear (about 10-15 liters). Add 30-50 ml of high-concentration specialized dive enzyme cleaner (such as Mirazyme or Sink the Stink).

2. Soaking: Submerge the snorkel and regulator second stage completely in the solution. Be sure to shake it a few times to discharge air bubbles, ensuring the cleaning liquid contacts all inner wall surfaces.

   • Time Control: Enzyme activity needs time to work; soaking for 15 to 30 minutes is recommended. Do not exceed 1 hour to avoid softening certain specialized rubber components.

3. No Rinsing Required (certain products): Many modern enzyme cleaners are designed as "rinse-free" types; trace enzymes remaining after drying will continue to inhibit bacterial growth. However, if you use a high-concentration dilution, it's recommended to do a quick rinse with fresh water.

Physical Scrubbing

Chemical soaking can kill bacteria and loosen biofilm, but the Flex Tube section of the snorkel is a major accumulation zone for dirt and grime.

Tool Type	Spec Recommendations	Applicable Parts	Key Operations
Snorkel Brush	Total length > 30cm, head diameter 20-25mm	Snorkel main hard tube	Use a brush with a flexible stainless steel spring handle. Push through the tube opening and pull back and forth at least 5 times.
Detail Brush/Toothbrush	Medium bristle hardness	Inside mouthpiece, around purge valve	Flip the silicone skirt of the mouthpiece and scrub the bite tooth grooves. Pay special attention to deposits at the base of the Purge Valve.
Cotton Swab	Wood or plastic stem	Regulator exhaust port dead zones	Reach deep into the Exhaust Tee of the regulator second stage to clear mold spots that brushes cannot reach.

Special Components

Cleaning the Purge Valve:

• Inspection: Check the membrane against the light for flatness. If the membrane edges are curled or have black mold spots, it will cause leaks.

• Cleaning: Use a toothpick or non-metallic tweezers to gently lift the membrane (be very gentle to avoid piercing) and flush the contact surface underneath with high-pressure water. If the structure allows, unscrew the bottom cover for thorough scrubbing.

Dry Top Maintenance:

• Problem: Salt crystals can jam the float axis, causing a failure to inhale or close.

• Treatment: Soak the entire top in warm water for 15 minutes. Do not attempt to disassemble complex top structures; if a spring is lost or a plastic clip breaks, the entire snorkel is ruined. Shake vigorously to discharge internal water, ensuring the float moves freely.

Even if not in use, gear should be checked every 3 months for signs of mold.

Zippers and Masks

Zipper Repair

Step-by-Step Rescue Plan:

• Phase 1: Dissolution

  • Principle: Use a weak acid to react with salt scale, converting it into soluble salts.

  • Recipe: Mix 1 part white vinegar (5% acetic acid) with 1 part hot water (about 50°C-60°C; heat accelerates the reaction).

  • Operation: Submerge the stuck part of the zipper completely in the solution. If the equipment is too large to soak, wrap the slider with a towel saturated in the solution.

  • Duration: Soak for 20 minutes for light stiffness; for severe corrosion, soak for 12 hours or more. You will see tiny bubbles forming as the acid decomposes calcium carbonate deposits.

  • Prohibited: Strictly prohibit spraying petroleum-based rust removers like WD-40 on plastic zippers, as the solvents will swell the nylon teeth, ruining the zipper.

• Phase 2: Mechanical Freeing

  • Tools: Pliers (only for holding the zipper pull tab, never the slider body itself) and a stiff-bristle toothbrush.

  • Method: After soaking, do not try to pull it open all at once. Grip the pull tab and perform "three steps forward, two steps back" micro-wiggling. The goal is to use the tiny displacements of the slider to crush remaining internal crystals.

  • Cleaning: Once the slider starts moving, immediately use the toothbrush dipped in vinegar solution to scrub the newly exposed teeth area, clearing away white powdery residue.

• Phase 3: Lubrication and Maintenance

Once the zipper is restored, a protective layer must be established to prevent secondary seizing.

The choice of lubricant is vital.

Lubricant Type	Recommendation Index	Usage Scenario	Characteristics
Paraffin Wax	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	Metal/Plastic zippers	Solid wax block, does not attract sand, resists water wash-off. Main ingredient in dive shop "zipper sticks."
Silicone Grease	⭐⭐⭐⭐	Drysuit airtight zippers	Paste, excellent lubrication, conditions rubber seals. However, attracts dust/sand; apply thinly.
Beeswax	⭐⭐⭐	Temporary substitute	Natural and non-toxic, but soft; can melt and stain clothes in tropical heat.
Petroleum Jelly/Vaseline	❌	Strictly Prohibited	Petroleum-based products degrade rubber/neoprene and attract dust, becoming an abrasive paste that wears down teeth.

Slider Replacement Guide:

If the zipper teeth are intact but the metal slider is broken or severely corroded (covered in green oxides), the gear can be saved by replacing the slider.

1. Identify Model: Check the code on the back of the slider. Dive gear typically uses YKK #10 (heavy duty) or #5 (medium). Vislon represents resin teeth, Coil represents nylon spiral teeth.

2. Disassembly: Use diagonal pliers to snip off the "top stop" of the zipper.

3. Installation: Slide the new slider in from the top and test for smoothness.

4. Sealing: Use a stainless steel stop clip or sew the top closed with needle and thread to prevent the slider from coming off.

Mask Fogging

Removing Factory Oil Film

Abrasive Scrubbing:

• Material: Ordinary white paste toothpaste. You must choose a toothpaste containing calcium carbonate or hydrated silica abrasives. Avoid gel types or toothpastes with high-strength whitening particles (large particles may scratch the glass).

• Steps:

  1. Keep the mask dry.

  2. Squeeze a pea-sized amount of toothpaste onto the inside of the lens.

  3. Use your finger pad (even your thumb, utilizing its prints) with medium pressure to scrub in circular motions.

  4. Focus on the boundary between the lens edge and the skirt, where the oil film accumulates thickest.

  5. Scrub continuously for 3-5 minutes.

  6. Rinse clean and dry, repeat the process at least 3 times. Continue until water forms a uniform film on the lens during rinsing, rather than patchy beads.

Flame Treatment

Professionals often use a lighter to burn off the oil film.

The flame instantly carbonizes the silicone oil layer.

• Warning: Only suitable for Tempered Glass lenses. Strictly prohibited for plastic or resin lenses (e.g., freediving masks).

• Operation: Use a windproof lighter, sweeping the inner flame lightly across the inside of the lens. You will see black soot appear on the glass; this is the product of burning silicone oil. Once cooled, wipe away the soot with a tissue.

• Risk: If the flame touches the silicone skirt, it will instantly melt or become brittle/deformed. If the lens is heated unevenly, there is a risk of shattering. Not recommended for inexperienced users.

Fogging in old masks is usually due to biological oil buildup.

Sunscreen, face creams, and sebum secreted by the skin will coat the lens.

The Baby Shampoo Solution:

• Ratio: Mix 1 part baby shampoo (tear-free, pH neutral) with 2-3 parts water in a spray bottle.

• Advantages:

  1. Degreasing: Effectively washes away sunscreen residue on the lens.

  2. Anti-fogging: Surfactants in the shampoo leave a thin hydrophilic film on the glass surface.

  3. Gentle: Even if trace amounts get into the eyes, the tear-free formula won't cause severe stinging (better than regular toothpaste or dish soap).

• Timing: Just before getting into the water. Spray on the dry inner lens, spread evenly, let sit for a few seconds, then perform a Quick Dunk.

Action must be fast when rinsing; only wash away excess bubbles.

If over-rinsed, the surfactant layer is completely washed off, and the anti-fog effect fails.

Waxy blocks (from surfboards) or oil stains often appear on wetsuits and are hard to clean.

Use a hairdryer on a low heat setting to warm the wax area, blot it with a tissue once melted, and finally clean the residue with mild soapy water.

If stained with marine fuel, apply degreasing dish soap to the stain, let sit for 20 minutes, then scrub.

Avoid using hot water, as it may cause the oil stain to spread and penetrate deeper into the fibers.

Seasonal Storage Tips

Storage environmental temperature should be controlled between 15°C and 25°C, with relative humidity below 60%, and strictly kept away from light.

UV rays and high temperatures break silicone molecular chains, causing materials to lose elasticity during the off-season.

Never stand fins vertically or stack heavy objects on masks.

Use wide-shouldered hangers (over 3cm wide) to hang wetsuits.

Avoid storing equipment in environments like garages where electric motors (which produce ozone) are present to prevent accelerated rubber aging.

Storage Environment Selection

Temperature Control

• High Temperature Damage (> 30°C):

  • Adhesive Failure: Industrial adhesives used in most masks and fins begin to soften above 40°C. Months of continuous heat lead to decreased bonding strength, manifesting as mask frame separation or fin blade delamination.

  • Neoprene Collapse: Wetsuit warmth relies on tiny nitrogen bubbles enclosed in synthetic rubber. When temperatures exceed 50°C (e.g., in uninsulated summer attics or garages), gas expansion can cause bubble walls to thin or burst. Once bubbles burst, material density increases, and buoyancy and thermal insulation (R-value) will permanently decrease.

  • Thermal Aging: Plastic parts undergo polymer chain breakage at high temperatures, leading to yellowing and increased brittleness.

• Low Temperature Risks (< 4°C):

  • While cold storage usually helps preserve food, for elastomer materials, temperatures near freezing cause temporary hardening. Handling or folding gear while cold makes hardened rubber more prone to micro-cracking.

  • If gear is not completely dry, residual water expanding by 9% when freezing can tear fabric fibers or push apart seam sealants.

Recommended Locations

Bedroom closets or climate-controlled storage rooms.

Prohibited Locations

Car trunks (summer interior temperatures can reach 70°C), uninsulated attics, areas near radiators or boilers.

Humidity Management

• High Humidity Hazards (RH > 60%):

  • Mold Growth: Mold spores are ubiquitous; when relative humidity exceeds 70% and organic matter (like skin cells, algae, or the fabric itself) is present, mold starts reproducing within 24 hours. Mold not only produces odors but its acidic byproducts corrode fabric coatings.

  • Hydrolysis: This is the main cause of degradation for Polyurethane (TPU) coated gear (e.g., BCD bladders, drysuit tape, waterproof bags). In high heat and humidity, moisture cuts polymer chains, causing coatings to peel or become sticky. This chemical reaction is irreversible; "stickiness" is a signal that the gear is end-of-life.

• Low Humidity Hazards (RH < 30%):

  • Excessively dry environments (e.g., rooms with strong dehumidifiers) can leach plasticizers from rubber and silicone, causing O-rings and mask skirts to shrink, harden, and lose their elastic sealing ability.

Humidity Range	Status Description	Risk Assessment
< 30%	Extremely dry	Rubber embrittlement, O-ring failure
40% - 55%	Ideal Range	Stable material performance, inhibits mold
60% - 75%	Damp	High mold risk, ventilation needed
> 75%	Extremely damp	Mold inevitable, accelerates hydrolysis

Place a simple digital hygrometer in your storage bin.

If humidity remains too high, use silica desiccant packs, but never let desiccants touch the equipment surface to avoid local over-drying causing hard spots.

Chemical Isolation

• Ozone Cracking: Ozone attacks the double bonds in rubber molecular chains. Since stored gear is often folded or coiled (under stress), these breaks rapidly expand into visible cracks. These cracks usually run perpendicular to the direction of stress.

• Household Ozone Sources:

  • Electric Motors: Any motor with carbon brushes produces sparks during operation, ionizing the air and creating ozone. Sources include: central AC fans, refrigerator compressors, washing machines, power tools (drills, saws), sump pumps.

  • Electrostatic Air Purifiers: Some ionizers or electrostatic dust-collecting purifiers release ozone as a byproduct.

• Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs): Fumes from paints, thinners, gasoline, or diesel stored in garages are lipophilic solvents that can penetrate silicone and rubber, causing swelling or dissolution.

Storage locations should be at least 3 to 5 meters away from any running motors or gas sources.

Light Control

• Ultraviolet (UV): UV-B radiation in sunlight has enough energy to break covalent bonds in polymers. In clear silicone masks under UV exposure, methyl side groups are oxidized, causing material to turn from clear to "urine yellow," with decreased light transmission and increased hardness.

• Fluorescent Lights: Old fluorescent tubes and some compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) emit trace amounts of UV. Long-term (months) exposure to these sources can cause cumulative damage to pigments and rubber.

• Visible Light: Some dyed fabrics (like bright rash guards, BCD nylon shells) are sensitive to visible light; prolonged exposure causes fading, which is often accompanied by a physical decline in fiber strength.

You must choose opaque containers.

If using clear plastic bins, cover the exterior with dark cloth or store them in windowless cabinets.